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Restaurant Evaluation: Dim Sum Delight | FoodNews


Dumpling Time was a San Francisco favourite earlier than increasing to the East Bay.

It was that uncovering good dim sum required a bit legwork: an exploratory mission to Oakland’s Chinatown or Dublin’s Ulferts Heart, maybe, or an extended journey to Milpitas Sq. or Clement Road throughout the bridge.

These days are prior to now, fortuitously, as dim sum—and dumplings particularly—is extra accessible than ever earlier than within the larger East Bay.

At his widespread East Ocean Seafood Restaurant in Alameda, for instance, David Chan saved listening to that many regulars had moved to the Walnut Creek space. So I’ve expanded east to the Ygnacio Plaza procuring middle throughout from Heather Farm Park, the place consumers can now take pleasure in shrimp har gow in between journeys to TJ Maxx and Sports activities Basement.

Chan’s new East Ocean outpost has an off-the-cuff, trendy look—completely different from his 40-year-old Alameda restaurant’s extra conventional Chinese language banquet setting. It is also one-fifth the dimensions and, alas, lacks the house to accommodate the delicacies’s iconic rolling carts, pushed round by waiters shouting out what’s on provide. Nonetheless, the kitchen dishes out a strong menu of immaculately ready Hong Kong–type dim sum, served seven days every week. As well as, it delivers that communal, comforting eating expertise so acquainted to lovers of dim sum, during which myriad little plates and steaming bamboo baskets—every stuffed with a singular, scrumptious chunk—pile up on the desk till nobody can eat one other morsel .

“That is the unique tapas,” says Chan. “You see all these Spanish eating places—effectively, that is the OG. We have been doing it for one thousand years.”

East Ocean Seafood Restaurant, Walnut Creek


East Ocean Seafood Restaurant gives traditional dim sum dishes.

Whereas the decor reads extra up to date café, East Ocean’s dim sum stays refreshingly old-school, a throwback to the times of substance over type. Not that Chan would not prefer to serve barbecue buns formed like panda bears and dumplings in unique colours. It is simply that the kitchen is busy pumping out a broad swath of dishes, from panfried turnip truffles to fried taro meat dumplings.

What units East Ocean aside are these classics. The turnip cake, for instance, is cooked agency on the skin however with a luscious, velvety inside punctuated by small hits of salty pork. A private favourite, the taro meat dumplings are a masterpiece of various texture and taste: chook’s nest–like fried ribbons of steamed-then-mashed candy taro encase a savory, creamy middle of seasoned pork, dried shrimp, and shiitake mushrooms. The steamed rooster toes reward the eater with tender, gelatinous meat bathed in a sweet-savory fermented bean sauce (simply keep in mind to spit out the bones). Sautéed pea sprouts present an ideal spring-fresh complement to the bouncy shrimp within the steamed dumplings.

The kitchen additionally produces Cantonese-style rice noodle rolls, and on our go to, served a must-try particular of spicy chili dumplings: moist pork wontons in an extrathin noodle pores and skin doused with chili oil.

Dumpling Time, Berkeley

This hip newcomer boasts decidedly extra flash—neon signage, multicolored dumplings, Wagyu beef—however stays grounded within the classics. As former director of operations Mike Haro says, whereas they try to supply an elevated dim sum expertise, “lots of the recipes come from the proprietor’s mother.”

The San Francisco–born idea’s first East Bay location (one other is slated for San Ramon later this 12 months) nails the balancing act. First, it is a fantastic restaurant with loads of out of doors seating on Berkeley’s swanky Fourth Road that continues to be accessible to households—children can watch dumplings being made by hand within the open kitchen. Most essential, the meals may be very effectively executed, with the gourmand add-ons well worth the splurge. Lobster siu mai retains a dense fish cake–like texture however provides luscious decadence courtesy of butter, white truffle oil, and (in fact) lobster. The tom yum goong mimics xiao lengthy bao, with the addition of coconut milk lending a pleasant tropical sweetness to the soupy pork encased in paper-thin, magenta-hued beet pores and skin—be sure to stability the richness of this dish with vinegar dipping sauce. Even requirements like pork gyoza style a minimize above: Moist floor pork blended with ginger and inexperienced onions comes wrapped in an impressively delicate pores and skin and topped by a crispy layer of panfried cornstarch crust.

A few northern Chinese language specialties additionally hit the mark. The Beijing noodles current toothsome house-made pasta with succulent floor pork completely punctuated with barely pungent fermented soybean paste. The shrimp toast, in the meantime, is an addictive savory Chinese language donut that includes a ribbon of pureed shrimp and dashes of spicy aioli.

Dumpling Hours, Walnut Creek


Dumpling Hours serves panfried, boiled, and steamed dumplings.

Launched quietly final summer season, this little eatery has prompted oversize buzz in downtown Walnut Creek—and as of June, Brentwood—with its dumpling-centric menu. The massive draw right here (because the identify would suggest) is these dumplings, which come steamed, boiled, and panfried. Specifically, the mouthwatering soup dumplings had been, pound for pound, the very best I attempted. These heavenly pouches exhibit an ever-so-light pores and skin that simply manages to carry in what looks as if an ocean of savory broth that hits the correct bitter be aware. Relying in your temper, you will get them filled with pork, rooster, beef, shrimp, or crab, plus variations that add additional spice or black truffle oil—the crab and pork had been particularly good. The restaurant earns additional factors for the lovable—and brilliantly designed—crimson dumpling spoons that assist reduce broth spillage.

Additionally wonderful are the pork buns, a spin (actually) on xiao lengthy bao during which the kitchen flips thicker-skinned dumplings the other way up to panfry the tops to brown crispiness. The non-fried bottoms are then served proper facet up with a concave ceiling flippantly sprinkled with black sesame seeds—simply be sure to notch a cooling vent within the air-tight dumpling pores and skin earlier than slurping down the molten-hot soupy porky goodness.

Non-dumpling objects of be aware embrace kelp-like wooden and silver ear mushroom salad, inexperienced onion pancakes, and braised beef noodle soup.


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